NATIONAL FINALIST FOYFL
The design process and inspiration of the gown
that was selected as a National Finalist in the Myer and Victoria Racing Fashions On Your Front Lawn Emerging Designer, Melbourne Cup Carnival competition
The race that stopped the nation and created history:
The 2015 Melbourne Cup. The inspiration of my design.
Michelle’s words “I’m floating on the cloud and it's a nice feeling” immediately had me thinking of silk. Of course it was tempting to rush out and purchase incredible new fabrics. This was to be a special gown, but it also had to be thoughtful. Thoughtful in design and execution, with consideration of our planet and people. I chose to upcycle damaged vintage scarves that I had acquired over the years, and my favourite fabric remnants and samples, including last year’s samples from Liberty Fabrics; all 100% silk.
When I recall the 2015 Cup- I think of Michelle and the lustre of her green, purple and white silks; these had to be key colours in my design. Not one to keep things simple, I also wanted to include some strong reds. The red’s that Stevie wore, the red of the Melbourne cup arch, and the red saddle cloth that adorned Prince of Panzance. Subtle swatches of red were included in the fabric selection, and I created unity in the outfit as a whole, adorning my ears and hand with Kate Spade accessories, and a statement vivacious red lip.
When selecting which fabrics, it was also deeply important to me to capture the opulent Flemington rose gardens. I included Liberty’s “ patchwork rose” & “falling poppies,” and decided to include orange to create contrast and movement, within the design.
One can’t remember a Melbourne Cup without vivid images of the fabulous fashions on the field. First introduced in 1962 in a bid to attract women to the once male dominated racecourse, the Myer Fashions on the field is the ultimate style contest and iconic fixture of the Melbourne Cup Carnival! I had to represent these impeccable women - and could think of no better means, than with Liberty. “Liberty is the chosen resort of the artistic shopper” as stated by none other than Oscar Wilde. The carefully composed collage of Liberty evokes the sea of colour that belongs to the fabulous fashions on the field.
Details: Hand sewn rolled edge
I chose to adorn my head with millinery by Fillies Collection. Crafted in Australia since 1963 Fillies Collection has developed an instantly recognisable aesthetic aligned with the effortless glamour and colour of Australian race wear. I chose this piece specifically because of the floral details and texture- again, celebrating the grandiose Flemington gardens. The white colour matched with the leather components of my Kade Spade shoes, and highlighted the whites within the patched fabric.
The silhouette. This pattern is a bit of a puzzle. It has taken many toiles to get the design just right, and where the ties meet the bodice and skirt it is multiple seams coming together- so many French seams! My design caters for a wide spectrum of abilities. Most of us will experience an important change in ability at some point in our lives. For all of us, our motor skills decrease with age. With this, so do our fashion choices. For this reason, my dress has been designed with usability & comfort, without compromising aesthetic and craftsmanship.
Inside the gown, lined with bridal silk
This garment is easy to put on, slip over head or step in. It contains no hard fastenings - which can be difficult to use and uncomfortable when seated. Due to the generous quantity of fabric used, this garment fits a variety of dress sizes- upto a size 14. The variable sizing and multiple styling options, mean that this design can be worn by the one person at different stages of their life (including maternity) and also cherished and shared amongst friends. This is great for the owner but also, for our planet. It makes good sense to invest in fashions that are of excellent quality, designed to last.
Illustrations by Emma Bond
Utilising fabric remnants & vintage scarves has been very challenging. But it makes this garment original. It is uniquely crafted, with precision, using high quality silks that could have quite easily been lost forever. To make these slippery fabrics more compliant to handle, I individually interfaced each piece. I had to apply quite a bit of math before cutting to ensure each fabric edge would be in perfect alignment when sewn together. The actual collaging, or patching placement was an evolving process. I really wanted your eye to travel around the figure, just as it does in a great artwork. I used squares and rectangles, inspired by Michelle’s diamond silks, and the actual placement of each individual piece and the manipulation of colour was a demanding process. As I have a formal education in Visual Arts I really wanted to maximise my knowledge of the art elements and utilise them to create harmony and rhythm in this gown. No one colour is used in just one place. Even though I worked across many fabrics, each was carefully chosen for a hue or line that it contained. The two larger panels I used (on the back), contrast in both line and shape. Yet both silk twills compliment each other. The painterly one contains many of the colours patched on the front, and the same orange and neutral colouring of the geometric panel.
Carefully aligning fabric squares and rectangles, using super fine pins to ensure precise placement
Iris Apfel has said: “When we were small children we all played dress-up and everybody had a good time. So why stop?
Thank you to Victorian Race Club and Myers for encouraging our nation to put our most fashionable foot forward and celebrate the craft of our local designers & milliners. It is an honour to be a finalist in your prestigious competition. I hope that like Michelle, I too can make a little history, and encourage more designers to produce in the adaptive space; designing and catering for a wider spectrum of abilities. Samatha Bullock has shared that “Mainstream fashion design excludes a large part of the population. People with disabilities need to feel reflected and considered in the fashion system. Fashion touches 100% of the population, so it can be used as a tool to make positive impact.”
Thank you for reading. If you know someone who would enjoy reading this, please share.
Gown: Madi & Pip, Millinery: Fillies Collection, Shoes & Bag: Kate Spade
Images: Natalie Trainor Photography